Friday 28 February 2014

Zambia 2014 - diary 2

Diary 2 (Thurs 27th February):
Well, today began with an amazing breakfast of porridge, bread and fried eggs, a pot of hot water, milk and guava juice.  We fed well and awaited our transport to the church/conference centre.  Pastor George arrived with Len and Ian who were impressed with our accommodation.  We went on to pick up James and Farayi, back along the potholed roads.  We waved to the lads that James had been out playing footy with the night before.  It’s amazing to be staying in these homes where the people are; such a privilege and an eye-opener – so glad we weren’t in a hotel.
At the church, Ian was impressed at the initial site of the work they had managed to do to the premises since his last visit.  We were ushered in to a back room to make ourselves comfortable, shown where water was stored, and reacquainted with our boxes of supplies, shipped in the weeks ahead of our visit.
We all then went in to join the beginning of the conference where they were already in full worship.  We were ushered on to sofas which made up the front row, with the delegates of the conference on wooden benches behind.  This felt a little uncomfortable but is customary for them so had make good of the situation. We soon had opportunity to move around and greet people.  This meeting, personally, I found quite overwhelming and suddenly found myself overcome at how God had brought us (me) to this place and gave to God all that I am and have and prayed that we use these next two weeks effectively. 
We could hear the children in the next part of the building so, at the break, Stephen asked us; James, Farayi, Hannah and myself, to follow him round for a tour of the school and orphanage.  We began by seeing some young men working on constructing some fencing they were going to use to secure the room to be used for the IT project (we later saw this being installed). Entering the school was an incredible experience!  It’s an extremely high ceilinged building and there appears to be no electricity so they rely totally on natural daylight which comes in from barred openings high up.  I was needing to adjust my eyes to take this in properly.  The large area has been divided up with hardboard partitions to create a central corridor and maybe 7 or 8 ‘rooms’.  Each room caters for 1 or 2 year groups ranging from about 9 to 25/30 children in each, sat around small wooden desks – these being very overcrowded in the larger classes.  Each teacher has a blackboard easel of sorts and there are a few basic pictures on the walls.  Greeting the children is very hard to describe; you get the feeling that most haven’t seen a white person before, some wanting just to touch your skin and starring deeply into your face.  We shook hands with all of them; some were happy to shake hands and others wanted to curtsey.  One class stood to their feet and started singing, ‘The love of God is very wonderful …’ The teacher said it was because they were so happy to see us.  I think we’ve got our work cut out for us this next couple of weeks, and I’d really like to spend some quality time with these amazing young people; the next generation, and to make friends with the youngest pupil (16months old) who cried at the sight of us.
We went on for a tour of the orphanage; 4 or 5 rooms fully bunked out, a couple of mosquito nets dotted around, string around to suffice as a wardrobe, and one shelf for a handful of writing materials.  I didn’t see any washroom facilities but I guess they are sparse and open to disease due to lack of water.  One lad was home as he hadn’t been feeling too well.  He looked rather forlorn and lonely sat there, the reality that there is then nothing to do other than to sit and think.
It’s lunchtime and we have now (again) been well fed (chicken, rice, potato salad, coleslaw and tomato soup and I am trying to catch up with my diary, sort through the boxes of materials and make some plans for the next few days as the best way to push this forward ……………………………………….
………………………………………….. having sorted through the boxes and checked everything had arrived, I decided to take a stroll around the complex to get some fresh air and some daylight as rooms tend to remain curtained shut throughout the daytime and I felt in need of some sunlight.  School had now finished for the day, 13:30 at this time of year, and they had just finished lunch in the orphanage.  Two of the girls were outside busily doing the washing up – one very large bowl on the ground for washing off the remains of dinner and one for rinsing.  Clothes were also hung out to dry on the ropes strung from wall to wall.  One young man of around 14 years of age was sat slumped against the wall, scratching around in the dirt.  He sat up to look smart as I approached and found it very difficult to communicate with me, not knowing quite what he should or shouldn’t say. Further along the wall of the building a girl in a pretty pink dress of around 7 years was playing by herself, scratching away at the mortar between the bricks with some small coloured stones and pieces of glass she had found.  I asked what she was playing.  She said, ‘Just playing …. I want you to get me’.  Realising that ‘to get me’ meant she wanted me to take her home with me, so the conversation became a bit stuck on this point and I found it impossible to make her smile.  Weighed down a little with how to break in to the life and thinking of these young people I continued to stroll.  I met Stephen’s wife and some other ladies from the conference as they left to go home; much excitement is spreading in terms of the literacy project to begin on Monday ……..  as I re-entered the building, the delegates had dispersed and Jimmy was now happily banging away on the drums, accompanied by three young men on the keyboard or PA.  Some younger ladies came along to join in by picking up the microphones and singing.  They had amazing voices and began to freely worship and dance. I realised that the door between the church hall and orphanage was open and some young faces were gathering to watch from a distance; one or two slipping in to the pews, including the little girl in the pink dress.  I beckoned them to come over and join in the singing and dancing but they were hesitant; maybe it wasn’t the done thing or maybe they were just a bit shy, I wasn’t sure which, but I went across and took the little girl by the hand and took her to the front with me to sing, and sing she did.  She had a good voice on her and knew how to worship Jesus.  It was warming to now see her smile!
We then headed back in to town with Pastor George to buy some data sims and check-out the local supermarket, Shoprite.  So glad we had a local man to guide us as we really would have got a bit stuck left to our own devices.  He chatted to the man on the MTN stall to sort us a deal on sims and 10mins later we were done.  Off now to the supermarket, very aware that all eyes were on these half dozen white faces.  Our host had to chat to the lady on security to get me in to the supermarket due to the fact I had a full backpack on, having just come from the church.  I would normally have had to leave it at the entrance, but she allowed me to take it in.  Very thankful as there were some important documents in there.  The supermarket was packed and reminded me very much of ours back home, even selling green reusable carrier bags at the checkout.  Hannah was keen to buy a fresh mango and the guys bought various bits of food and teabags.  As we were queuing to pay for our goods, a lady with her baby approached Hannah and asked for her name and phone number with no hesitation.  Hannah chatted to her, saying she didn’t have her number on her, but could meet us if she came to church on Sunday.  The lady wasn’t going to be put off, but Farayi came to the rescue, giving the lady the address to the church and Hannah was able to slip away.  Pastor George helped Len and I through the checkout to buy top-up for our sim cards as we are still getting our heads round the local currency and you have to be sure you are not being done a poor deal.  As we waited for the others to come through I pointed out to Len and Ian a man further along our queue; very tall and gaunt looking and dressed in a bright red caftan.  George had told me earlier in the supermarket that he was a witch doctor, and this is how they dressed.
Getting out of the supermarket wasn’t so easy either; we had to product our receipts to a young man to check and tear, but mine were buried in the depths of my bag.  This was going to be a mission in the entrance of this busy little place but, again, a word from our host meant we were waved through.
Back out in the street there were women sat on the ground selling various wares, mainly food and herbs, but also handbags and flip-flops etc.  We strolled back down the muddy track to our car.  One young guy came up in front of us doing a funny little gesture; stomping his feet, knees bent, from side to side, with his hands up to his face, elbows out.  It would have been tempting to do likewise to ‘connect’ with him but this was the catch.  George said that if you did, you would be off guard and his hands would be in your pockets.
We passed a statue of a man throwing large muddy balls of stone; apparently how they fought for independence in Zambia (guns are not common place here even today).  Len and I decided to run back quickly to take a photo here for one of my colleagues at work, but we had to be very quick and told to be very careful not to get caught up with the glued up young men sitting to the back of this monument.  They did start to shout at us as we walked away and when we didn’t stop they shouted, ‘what’s up?’  Len said, ‘Jesus is up’ which seemed to make them happy.
So aware that you just can’t talk to people the same way here in the streets; at least, not as a white man/woman.  On the whole, the main aim is to get as much out of you as they can, and if they can get your contact details, you will be constantly plagued for practical and financial help.  Having said that, the Zambian people, by nature, are also an incredibly hospitable people and the Christians here go all out to serve and bless.

4:30pm and the evening rains began, right on time. On arriving home, mine and Hannah’s bags were taken from us at the door and carried to our room where we found that our bed had been remade and all our personal belongings had been tidied and organised for us, and there was food prepared on the table.  The rain outside was now torrential and lightning flashed across the sky.  I stood for a few minutes in the doorway as it was very refreshing after the heat of the day, but not for too long as we didn’t want a mozzie attack.  We had a lovely evening of fellowship together and got some chocolate out to share, especially as we were now aware that chocolate is a luxury not often bought but very much liked.  What a beautiful family and we are really getting to know each other now, and talking together about the differences in our cultures.  Time for another good night’s sleep.

Zambia 2014 - diary 1

Diary 1 (Tues 25 - Wed 26th February):
We took off at 7pm on Tuesday 25th February 2014.  It was awesome(!) is all I can say; rising up above the lights around London, then flying on down south passing over Brighton at around 7:20pm; covenant dear brothers and sisters!

We were well catered for; first some cold drinks, then dinner (salmon, beef or veggie) followed by crumble and custard, then tea or coffee.  Didn’t have much joy getting the in-flight entertainment working properly in my seating area, and the selection didn’t particularly grab me, so I decided it was probably best to knuckle down for some sleep as we would be losing three hours this night.  Ian and Len both slipped off to find some empty rows of seats, so I was able to stretch out across our row of three – pure luxury as my short legs made sitting or sleeping upright in these seats pretty uncomfortable.  Despite the stretch, pillows, blindfold, earplugs and Kenya Airways blanket, I wasn’t able to do much more than rest; sleep evaded me. After a couple of hours I decided to stop fighting it and watch the stars instead – they seemed so close and clear, and the moon too, as we were now flying at an altitude of 37,000 feet and 571 miles per hour.

We were all awoken around 5am (still only 2am UK time) for breakfast! J; croissant, butter, jam, mixed fresh fruit, yoghurt, fruit and coffee …having not slept it was a welcome energy boost, even if dinner hadn’t seemed that long ago.  We had made good time, with regular gentle turbulence (felt rather like the way you rock a baby in a pram – no wonder they struggle to get to sleep too!) By this time though the screen indicated that we were flying over quite mountainous terrain, and the dawn was just slowly peeking over the horizon so squashed my face to the glass to see what I could see.  After half an hour of admiring the dark distant mounts below us, I realised that they weren’t!! We were still 37,000 feet up so they must be clouds! What a plumb! So mind blowingly awesome.

We descended for a long time through the clouds, but then burst through over Nairobi at 6am (3am UK time).  Lots of lights; very similar to how we had left Heathrow, London.  It was a smooth landing and we are now chilling in the transfer lounge awaiting our next flight to Ndola, Zambia. Lots of people sitting and sleeping around here; men women and children, and quite a number stretched out sleeping, even in their smart shiny suits.  Time to find a toilet … the ‘ladies’ was in a state of disrepair, but at least there were three doored cubicles, thankfully, with pedestals and a bin, though the lock was hanging off and the toilet itself wasn’t clean and didn’t flush well enough.  The cleaner was sleepily sat in the corner of the washbasin area, propping herself up against the wall, mop in hand.  Her eyes were heavy and she spoke to a friend with a low, slow drawl.  I was in no hurry as our next plane wasn’t due to leave for some time yet, so I waited to use the washbasin as two ladies were taking their time to have a very thorough wash down, but the cleaner came to life very abruptly and ushered one of them away to the side to allow me to wash my hands.  She said they would be there all day if I just waited.  I spoke with her a while. She said she was now 14 hours in to her shift. She would finish in another hour or two, but this was a short shift.

Very tired now having had no sleep last night and little the night before, but the day has dawned, so on we go …. Little time to sleep on this flight either as we will be covering some amazing landscape, and it’s only a couple of hours til we land at our destination, Ndola …………………………………………………………..

………………………… We passed through the check-in point/customs; a very basic but thorough set-up (these are the most nerve racking points for me).  We walked round in to the boarding lounge; a large room with windows all round, either in to the corridor we had walked down, or out to the landing strips.  None of the windows opened so it was a very airless, warm room and the sun was trying to break through outside.  Our flight was delayed due to an operational problem (worrying), so the sit became a long one and the closeness of the atmosphere meant sleep began to creep up.
The call came to say we could board.  No lifts here, so out we went and down a few flights of open staircase to the tarmac, and across to our plane and it actually feels like summer now (an English summer mind – still cold for these folks). Hmmm … much smaller than our first and there are a lot of us.  Boarding the plane, the heat and closeness of many hot sweaty bodies hit you hard.  Sudden realisation that the operational problem with our plane was that the air conditioning was bust!  This was definitely not going to be a comfortable flight.

We settled in to our seats, each of the two columns being made up of three rows of seats, and far more tightly packed than the first leg of our journey. There was a Zambian businessman sat by the window in ours, so Len sat in the middle and I near the aisle.  No knee room here at all and little room in the luggage rack above so most of us had our bags under our feet or the seat in front.  I kept mine under my feet as this was far more comfortable for my short legs.  Can’t have been comfortable for the others as they are all longer legged than me!  The lady in front of me decided she was going to sleep the whole journey so promptly laid her chair back, so even less room; this was going to be a bit of a trial of a journey and the airless heat was becoming very uncomfortable – thankfully I had a fan!  Our captain spoke to reassure us that air would start to flow more once we were airborne and prepared us for take-off.

The air stewards and stewardesses were very bright and friendly dressed in their red uniforms and were soon priming us with drinks and food.  In my head I was hungry but my body was by now so very tired I could only manage a couple of mouthfuls so decided to just drink for now.  It looked very inviting too; a slice of frittata, baked beans, a sausage, some nshima (part of the staple diet here) and a bread roll.  I couldn’t even manage a cup of tea or coffee so tried to get myself comfortable to doze but Len had now got in to conversation with the chap next to him and this guy did not stop to take even one breath, so no sleep again, but half of the plane would have heard the good news of Jesus and baptism!  Our captain spoke again (always held my breath, expecting it to be bad news as his habit was to speak with lots of hesitation – realised after a while that this was his natural manner, so all was well).   He said that we would be flying passed Kilimanjaro in the next couple of minutes but, unfortunately, we didn’t get to see it as it was on the other side of the plane to the one we were sitting, and the chap across from us had pulled down the blind due to the sunlight, obviously a common site to him so not too fussed.  Maybe we will see it on our home-bound journey.

A bus took us from the plane to the huts at the end of the runway at Ndola and the heat was now noticeable.  Very thankful for the cloud cover at this point and a little refreshing rain as our wait in the queue at customs was long.  Passports, invitation letter, photo, finger scans and questions about our stay and we were eventually through.  Our hosts had sent two very large cars to transport us to Kitwe, about an hour’s drive away.  Our vehicle was air-conditioned and very comfortable and our hosts talked to us about the sites as we passed by; many road side sellers stay under make-shift stalls/huts selling anything from food to beds and rugs.  Many men, women and children were walking along the long dusty track, children obviously on their way home from school.  The sights here were many and my tired eyes were eager to take it all in; housing, businesses, shopping streets and vegetation, noting the termite mounds Ian G said to look out for!  Sleep took me until Len nudged me to say we were entering Kitwe.  Driving over a very swollen river, Len jokingly asked whether there were any crocodiles down there, to which our hosts quite naturally said yes, lots of!!!!
We didn’t go straight to our hosts homes as we needed to source sim cards for our phones, exchange our pounds and dollars (having found neither of these are now usable in Kitwe) in to Kwacha, the local currency, and then off to get something to eat.  This was a very long and complex process, but only for the fact we were against the clock a little, tired, hot and very newbie.  One local man asked our hosts if we were new to the town.  When he replied that we were he said words to the effect, ‘I thought so because they are so white; no colour.’ Time for a bit of sunshine!  We ate well and began to feel human again – think this is what they call acclimatising!

Stepping out of the car by the eating house, we were immediately approached by an older lady pushing a young lad toward us with his hand out.  How difficult was that to say we have no money (at this point we actually didn’t, but all the same, heartbreakingly difficult).  Our hosts were quick to deal with the situation.  This was to be the first of many similar.  Talking with Pastor George about this later, we asked what they would normally do.  He said it was difficult because you could give them enough for a loaf of bread, but how do you know that is where it is going.  He said it was more to be spent on things like glue, pointing out a group now sitting on a roundabout, off their faces, so it doesn’t really solve the problem and they will just keep on coming.

We were then driven to our various host houses.  At the first, Bishop Stephen and Gladys’s home, we were very warmly greeted by two lovely older sisters and immediately shown around the house.  They were keen to show us the room they had prepared and so proud to be having guests; two very simple beds with a cover and mozzie nets in place, prepared with such obvious care.  A very hospitable people. 

I understand now why the addresses are called ‘plots’ because that is exactly what they are.  They have been given a plot of land and then they create their own boundaries and gates and, indeed, these are boundaries; high walled/fenced, most with barbed wire, spikes or plants on top, and 6’ plus high gates.  We drove on to our next host, along red-brown dirt roads, drainage gullies to the sides, the side roads being full of potholes, some extremely deep and full of water from the heavy rains.  We are, in fact, at the end of the rainy season but it is very much like a hot summer’s day in the UK right now, with a thunderstorm here and there in the evening.

Hannah and I stayed at Pastor George Banda’s home.  There we met his wife, Yvonne, and his son, Agape, but as in most situations, another relative and her daughter lives with them as she has no other family now able to help look after her and her child.  This home was only built a couple of years ago on a new complex that the council is encouraging and aiding people to build homes on.  So this is a comparatively very modern home with concrete walls, and high railed fence and gates; inside the walls are cream coloured, and the bungalow has large ceramic floor tiles throughout, to keep the home cool.  We were welcomed with another fantastic meal of rice, potato salad, chicken, and a tomato/green bean based soup/sauce. Bishop Stephen called round for 20 minutes to make sure we had settled in well.  We showed him photos of our families and some of the fundraising activities that have gone on back home in order to raise funds for this project.  He was very impressed at the effort people had gone to in order to support these projects and they all said they would like to be able to taste the cakes.

Despite the fact this home has a beautifully fitted kitchen and a bath with shower-head, the stark reality is that these are not much use without a good water supply, which was an obvious lack.  Yvonne keeps a large water container at the foot of the bath which she collects water in during the early part of the day in order to meet the needs for the rest of the day once the supply has dried up (there are 7 of us in this house now).  Having been in the same clothes now for about 36 hours and needing to freshen up and brush teeth, we made as good a use as we could of the supplies that were there; they were cool and very refreshing – we were both very grateful.  We went on to unpack our belongings in our room; a neat and simple room with one large kingsize bed and an empty built-in wardrobe space.  The windows were shut and barred and we were encouraged to leave them shut because the area surrounding the new plots is completely undeveloped with lots of tall grass and stagnant water pools, excellent conditions for mozzie breeding.  We didn’t have a mosquito net that would fit, so this was important.  We left the door ajar at night to allow air to circulate against the stifling heat.  Having squished a couple of hungry looking mozzies, we sprayed our bedding and bodies with repellent before we slept, and sleep we did.  Neither of us woke till morning despite the midnight prayer time in the lounge.

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